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Annuity StrategyLast updated: 2026-06-27Author: Hans Goldstein, NPN 20602398

Should I Take Out a MYGA Loan? — The Honest Loan-vs-Surrender Comparison

TL;DR: Most MYGAs do NOT permit policy loans — that's a life insurance feature, not an annuity feature. A few carriers offer MYGA loans at 6-8% with the contract's credited rate continuing on the full balance. Compare against (a) surrendering the MYGA outright, (b) the 10% free withdrawal provision, or (c) taking a personal loan / HELOC. Below: when loans actually exist, the math on each path, and the tax trap to avoid.

First — do MYGAs even allow loans?

Quick clarification because there's a lot of confusion: most MYGA contracts do NOT permit policy loans. That's a feature of permanent life insurance (whole life, universal life), not multi-year guaranteed annuities.

The handful of carriers that do offer loans against MYGA cash value as of mid-2026:

Even among these carriers, the loan feature is typically:

If your MYGA doesn't allow loans (most don't): your options are the free-withdrawal provision, surrender, or alternative borrowing outside the contract.

If the loan IS available — the math

Scenario: $250K MYGA at 5.6% credited rate, 3 years into a 5-year guarantee period. You need $40K for a home renovation. Loan feature exists at 6% loan rate.

ItemAnnual amount
Credit on full $250K cash value at 5.60%+$14,000
Loan interest charged on $40K loan at 6.0%-$2,400
Net spread on borrowed amount-40 bps net cost
Effective cost of loan~0.40% per year of the borrowed amount

The carrier earns 40 bps on the spread (loan rate minus credited rate). For the policyholder, the effective borrowing cost is roughly 40 bps — far cheaper than any alternative.

Tax treatment of MYGA loans:

The catch: The loan rate (6-8%) significantly exceeds the credited rate (5.6%). You're paying the carrier a spread for the privilege of borrowing your own money. This isn't usury — it's the cost of the optionality. But it's not "free borrowing" either.

Alternative 1: The free-withdrawal provision (cheaper option)

Almost every MYGA contract allows 10% of the cash value to be withdrawn per year without surrender charge. Some contracts allow 5%; a few premium products allow up to 15%.

How to use it for the same $40K need:

Tax treatment: Non-qualified MYGA withdrawals use LIFO (last-in-first-out). Interest comes out first as ordinary income; principal returns last and is tax-free. For a $250K MYGA that's grown $30K in interest, the first $30K withdrawn is fully taxable as ordinary income.

For under-59½ account holders, there's also a 10% federal early withdrawal penalty on the interest portion. This makes early withdrawals from MYGAs particularly painful before 59½.

For most situations where the loan would be considered: the free-withdrawal provision is cheaper than the loan. You give up future growth on the withdrawn amount, but you avoid the 6-8% loan interest charge.

Alternative 2: Full surrender (the nuclear option)

Surrendering the MYGA gets you the entire cash value minus any surrender charge. For a 5-year contract surrendered in year 3, typical surrender charges:

Surrender yearTypical charge (% of cash value)
Year 18-9%
Year 27-8%
Year 35-6%
Year 43-4%
Year 51-2%
Year 6+0% (post-surrender period)

$250K cash value surrendered in year 3 with 5% surrender charge = $237,500 to you, minus tax on accrued interest.

This is the worst option for a $40K need. You'd liquidate $250K to access $40K, paying $12,500 in surrender charges (5% of $250K) and triggering tax on all accrued interest. Don't do this unless you need most of the balance.

Partial surrenders (taking just $40K) are typically subject to the same surrender charge rate on the amount above 10% free withdrawal. So if you take $40K from a $250K contract in year 3:

Partial surrender is cleaner than full surrender for this size of need, but still more expensive than a HELOC or personal loan if you can qualify for those at reasonable rates.

Alternative 3: HELOC or personal loan (often cheapest)

For a home renovation specifically, a HELOC is often the cheapest borrowing path:

For non-home uses, a credit union personal loan or unsecured line of credit at 7-9% might be cheaper than tapping the MYGA, depending on credit quality.

The decision matrix:

NeedBest pathSecond-best
Under 10% of cash valueFree withdrawalHELOC if available
10-20% of cash valueFree withdrawal year 1 + free withdrawal year 2 (spread over 2 years)HELOC for the immediate need
20-50% of cash valueHELOC or personal loan (avoid surrender)If loan feature exists, MYGA loan
50%+ of cash valueReconsider whether the MYGA is the right vehicle long-termIf unavoidable, partial surrender accepting penalty

The tax trap to avoid — pre-59½ rules

If you're under age 59½, MYGA withdrawals (and to some extent MYGA loans on MEC-classified contracts) face an additional 10% federal penalty on the interest portion.

Example: 55-year-old with $200K MYGA, $30K of accrued interest. Takes $40K free withdrawal:

Effective tax rate on this withdrawal: 32.5% just to access your own money. For under-59½ account holders, MYGAs should be considered functionally untouchable until the age 59½ restriction lifts. Don't deploy money into a MYGA you might need to access early.

The right way to think about MYGA "liquidity"

The MYGA isn't structured to be a liquid asset during the multi-year guarantee period. It's a yield-locked savings instrument with limited intra-term access via the free-withdrawal provision.

The right MYGA framework:

The honest answer for most MYGA holders considering a loan: the loan is a useful tool, but it usually isn't the cheapest option. Compare against HELOC, personal loan, and 2-year-spread free withdrawals before locking in a 6-8% loan rate.

Related reading


Hans Goldstein, NPN 20602398

Want my independent take on whether this fits your situation?

I'm Hans Goldstein — independent licensed insurance producer (NPN 20602398), appointed with multiple A-rated carriers. I run side-by-side comparisons against CDs, MYGAs, Treasuries, and MMFs every week for retirees and pre-retirees. Tell me what you're considering and I'll send back a written comparison.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Do all MYGAs allow loans?
No. Most MYGA contracts do NOT permit loans — that's a life insurance feature. A handful of carriers (Athene, Sammons, Symetra, Pacific Life) offer loan features on selected MYGA products, usually only after the multi-year guarantee period ends.
Is a MYGA loan taxable?
Generally no, unless the contract is classified as a Modified Endowment Contract (MEC). Most non-qualified MYGAs are MECs (because all premium goes in at once), in which case loans become taxable distributions. Verify the MEC classification before borrowing.
What's the typical MYGA loan rate?
6-8% annual loan rate, paid to the carrier. The credited rate continues on the full cash value, so the net cost is approximately the loan rate minus the credited rate (typically 30-200 bps net annual cost).
Can I borrow from an IRA MYGA?
No. IRA accounts (including IRA MYGAs) cannot have loans — that's prohibited under ERISA. The only way to access IRA MYGA money before 59½ is via distribution, which triggers ordinary income tax + 10% early withdrawal penalty.
What's the free withdrawal provision?
Most MYGAs allow 10% of cash value per year to be withdrawn without surrender charge. Some allow 5%; a few allow 15%. Always check your specific contract for the exact percentage.
Is the free withdrawal taxable?
Yes. Non-qualified MYGA withdrawals use LIFO — interest comes out first as ordinary income, principal returns tax-free. Under age 59½ adds a 10% federal penalty on the interest portion.
Can I take a 1035 exchange instead of surrendering?
Yes, if you're moving to another annuity. A 1035 exchange transfers tax basis and avoids the surrender event entirely. See 1035 exchange rules. Doesn't help if you need cash for non-annuity purposes.
What happens to a MYGA loan if I die?
The loan balance is deducted from the death benefit. The reduction is generally treated as ordinary income to the heir — same tax treatment as if the heir had withdrawn that amount. Avoid leaving outstanding loans at death if possible.

Disclosure

This article is general educational information, not personalized financial, tax, or legal advice. All rates, IRS limits, Social Security PIA factors, IRMAA brackets, FDIC/NCUA coverage, and state guaranty fund coverage figures are current as of the publication date and subject to change. IRMAA brackets and Roth/Traditional IRA limits cited reflect IRS guidance for 2026 and may be updated by the IRS or SSA; confirm current figures at irs.gov and ssa.gov before acting. Hans Goldstein is an independent licensed insurance producer (NPN 20602398) appointed with multiple A-rated annuity carriers; he does not sell bank CDs, money market funds, or Treasury securities and is not affiliated with any bank, brokerage, or government agency discussed. No compensation has been received from any third party in connection with this article. Bank CDs are FDIC-insured deposit products; credit union share certificates are NCUA-insured; money market funds are SEC-regulated investment products with no FDIC coverage; Treasuries are direct obligations of the U.S. government; MYGAs are insurance contracts backed by carrier balance sheets and state guaranty associations. These are different product categories with different protections, tax treatments, and trade-offs. Always confirm current rates and tax law with the issuer or a CPA before acting.

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